L.A. to the Bay - NY Times Tacos

Always looking for tacos in Cali, here is a list that is the result of a highway 1 NY Times adventure:

EL PARIáN 1528 West Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles; (213) 386-7361.

TACOS BAJA ENSENADA 5385 Whittier Boulevard, Los Angeles; (323) 887-1980.

LA SUPER RICA TAQUERIA 622 North Milpas Street, Santa Barbara; (805) 963-4940.

LILLY’S TAQUERIA 310 Chapala Street, Santa Barbara; (805) 966-9180.

CHAPALA RESTAURANT 2816 Main Street, Morro Bay; (805) 772-4492.

RUDDELL’S SMOKEHOUSE 101 D Street, Cayucos; (805) 995-5028.

TAQUERIA VALLARTA 1101 Pacific Avenue, Santa Cruz; (831) 471-2655.

TAQUERIA Y MERCADO DE AMIGOS 1999 Pescadero Creek Road, Pescadero; (650) 879-0232.

LA TAQUERIA 2889 Mission Street, San Francisco; (415) 285-7117.

TAQUERIA SAN JOSé 2830 Mission Street, San Francisco; (415) 282-0203.

EL TONAYENSE TACO TRUCK Harrison Street & 22nd Street, San Francisco.

LA PALMA MEXICATESSEN 2884 24th Street, San Francisco; (415) 647-1500.

Poached Dove

Last night the wild turkey breast I had thawed turned out to be 20 dove breasts, and I was left with the much more challenging task of making the gamiest bird in my experience approachable. What's more, it was under pressure to perform.

I am not sure if it was the company (a wonderful girl) or sheer luck, but the dish I ended up with was one of the best I have ever made.

I started by cutting the breast meat from the bone for each of these dark meat breasts, and then, after deliberating over sauces and cooking techniques, I settled on poaching the breasts in the whole milk I had gotten the day before at the farmer's market from Cruze Farm. My experience with bittersweet cocoa and venison led me to the same path, and in spite of always associating chocolate with winter, I made my first chocolate sauce. I had even entertained making a chocolate milk for poaching, but could not see a siginificant difference in taste, and the butter, bittersweet cocoa, and wild rasberry compote lent all the flavor that the lightly poached doves were looking for. Served next to a truffle oil arugula salad, the mixture became the perfect complement for the beautiful day.

Thank you Allen for sharing your dove harvest with me and teaching me how to harvest my own.

Thank you Bea for the wild rasberrry compote that I accepted so greedily when you offered it to me some time ago.

Thank you Rocio for a great beginning to a friendship.